For pool owners in Fairfield, Connecticut and Westchester, New York the winter of 2011-2012 was one of the mildest on record. 

Here’s what you can expect for your pool (and what we are seeing in our pools):

• Chances are your winter floaters are empty by March.  Under average winter conditions [chlorine] floaters last till mid-May.
• Without an established layer of ice, pools will warm up much quicker.
• Though winter was mild, we still had plenty of dilution- 2011 was described locally as, “the wettest year on record,” with plenty of rain falling after pools were closed and through much of the winter.

Between warm weather and dilution, the sanitizer level in your pool water is very likely running near or at zero right now. Sanitizers, such as chlorine, are critical for  preventing the emergence and growth of plant life (like algae) and bacterias in your pool.

Q: Under these conditions, what should a pool owner do?

A: Here’s what we do, and it’s not as hard as it might seem.

Over the next few weeks, we will visit our Client’s pools, peel back a portion of the winter cover and re-load the winter floaters. That should be enough to keep the water clear and algae-free until opening.

Q: What will happen if I don’t do this?

A: You’ll most likely have a green pool and be breeding mosquitoes when you pull the cover off in May. A green pool is not only more labor-intensive to open and get clear, but will cost you about 2-3X as much to open.

At your service,

B

p.s. Since I’m giving advice let me toss in two more things:

• Spray for deer ticks. I pulled one off the other day and am being treated for lyme disease as I write this. According to our in-house experts, this is going to be a bad year.
• Once you’ve treated tick habitat, put up the hammock and set out the Adirondack chairs. The folks at Agway told me today it will hit close to 70 this week (and as all experienced Hammockers will tell you- this outdoor ”sport” is best enjoyed before the bugs are out in force and after the ticks are under control). 

Equipment enhancements and plumbing projects.

November and December can be tricky times of year to do such work, but if the weather is cooperating, I say, “…go for it!”

Generally the ground is well-frozen in January and this frost layer can be as deep as 18″ or more.

Still, If you can get such projects out of the way now, during the “off season,” there are some big benefits including these:

1) Most service companies are happy to do the work now when pools are closed. They actually prefer to do these sort of projects, while things are a bit quieter. Also, you may find a service company more willing to negotiate on costs this time of year.

2) The risk of a delayed spring opening is reduced. Things get very busy very fast for pool companies in Spring, especially if the winter is prolonged by March snowfall and colder weather.

3) Landscape repairs over trenches get an early jump in Spring. Anything dug up in December will be well settled by Spring. Lawn repairs will not be delayed.

So, if you can, I recommend doing the project or installation now. Not everyone thinks this far ahead, but for those who do, these and other benefits can be realized by May the following season.

May you and your family enjoy a wonderful holiday season and prosperous new year!

Bob

In the Northeast, the average swimming pool is covered and “winterized” for 6-7 months or approximately 31 weeks.

Here is a short list of service issues, relating to water and ice levels, that we focus on after pools are winterized and covered:

1) Maintain water levels in Fall: When a pool is closed and covered in September or October, we typically lower water levels between 13″ and 11″ (respectively) below the bottom of tile- Why? Because with average rainfall water levels will be back up and close to bottom of tile by early December; this is when we do our first round of pump downs. Average rainfall in Fall is about 1″ per week.

2) Maintain ice levels in Winter: During Winter months we modify our acceptable water level ranges to:  8″ below bottom of tile (maximum) and bottom of tile (minimum). The main reason for this is snow. A pool safety cover is engineered to sag and rest on top of water. By keeping water or ice levels in this range we protect the tile from ice damage and also the winter cover from snow damage.

A note about  water tables: In areas where water tables can rise dramaticvally during heavy Fall rain we do not remove as much water in September and October.

Look for my next post about pool care during months when pool is closed. Coming soon!

Cleaning Up After The Storm

In my previous post I wrote out some tips for preparing for storms with heavy rain and strong winds. I hope you found them helpful.

In this post, I’ll lay out some post-storm clean-up  advice in some detail, using the FAQs format.

Q: What about wash-ins?

A: This week I have done a lot of “triage” work- deciding which pools have water that can be saved and which need to be drained and refilled with new water. We can clean up some pools that look “too far gone” while other pools that seem in pretty good shape, we decide to drain re-fill.

The key factors in my decision to save water or drain and re-fill include:

1. Amount of silt and organic material in pool- Less than an inch of silt and mulch on a pool’s floor is generally easy to vacuum out. Silt that is in suspension (i.e. brown murky water) can be dropped to floor by “flocking” the water with an agent that drops suspended fine particles to floor.
2. City Water vs. Well Water- If a pool Owner is on a well, or has city water but is in a hurry, I often advise that pool water be replaced. It’s just quicker. If you are on a well and must truck in water- this will add to clean-up expense and will be one of your deciding factors.
3. Phosphates and Nitrates- This is an important decision-maker for pool professionals.  Often a wash-in will bring with it fertilizers or worse (e.g. in cases where septic systems in area are full with rain water and  overflowing). Phosphates and Nitrates can be detected with a good test kit in the field. The issue is this: Phosphates and Nitrates encourage plant growth AND interfere significantly with chlorination, this will make clearing the pool more difficult, and sometimes near impossible. So, this is a major determining factor for me when making the decision to save or change pool water.

Q: What about power failures?:

A: When power is knocked out and it is unclear when it will be restored, it is critical to protect the pool water – you have about 3 days to do this:

1. Open up your winterize supplies and locate your chlorine floaters. By adding chlorine floaters to your pool- you can hold the water for weeks.
2. Remove heavy debris like piles of leaves, branches and other organic matter as this will cloud pool and use up chlorine.
3. Maintain a 3.0 ppm chlorine level.
4. Other benefits include: Prevents mosquitoes from breeding in water. Prevents spread of algae- making clean-up much quicker when power is restored. Keeps water potable, or at least suitable for flushing toilets if necessary.

Remember the Health issues in Florida with all those foreclosed homes with pools? It is critical to protect the water and to do so early in a prolonged power outage.

Q: What if sea water got into my pool?

A: Salt water- especially if diluted- is generally NOT going to hurt your pool finish or equipment. However, if salt levels exceed about 4,000 ppm, you should consult with your pool service professional.

Q: My equipment is in a pit or basement that flooded, is it ruined?

A: A gas heater should NOT be activated until a professional, licensed service technician has inspected it. Gas valves that have been immersed under water should be considered unsafe for use. Your pump motor should be inspected as well; sometimes a pump motor can be dried out, reconditioned and saved.  Generally electronic equipment cannot be saved if immersed for a prolonged period of time. Your service professional will need to determine this.

This pool was hit by salt water from the Long Island Sound. We were able to drop sediment to the bottom, vacuum it out and save the water. Not everyone was as fortunate.

Summary:

As of 9/1/11 there are still may pool Owners without power- (2) things to focus on in such cases:

1) Minimize organic matter in pool as possible- remove leaves, twigs and branches by hand or with a leaf net.

2) Maintain a chlorine count of around 3 ppm. This can be done using chlorine floaters. If you do not have floaters on hand, you can make your own from plastic jugs or other creative means. Be careful not to allow chlorine tabs to come into direct contact with pool finish as a permanent “chemical burn” mark may result.

I hope you are finding these posts to be timely and helpful. Happy Labor Day!

Preparing For a
Hurricane-

Frequently Asked
Questions.

If you are a pool owner, there are some things you can do to
prepare for strong storms.  Here are some questions we are typically asked and our answers:

Q: What about deck
furniture?

A: Secure umbrellas and pool deck furniture, especially anything with glass. Severe storms can carry gusts of wind that
will pick objects up, turning them into projectiles. Anything that can sail
will (e.g. a glass covered bistro table). Stack or store such such objects in a
protected area if there is time. If you do not have the time or muscle to store
all furniture before the storm hits, try to at least remove the glass table tops and store in a safe place.
If no indoor storeage is available, chairs and tables can be massed together and tucked into an area protected from direct wind- perhaps close to a wall of the house.

Q: What about deck and yard drainage?

A: Check yard drains to be sure they are clear. Drains
can clog during a storm causing water to mass in areas- if you are able and if
it is safe, you should monitor critical
storm drains and keep them clear during the heavy rains so water can get
away from area unimpeded. Please exercise great caution.

Q: What should I do with my automatic pool cover?

A: If your pool is equipped with an automatic cover:

Open the cover and leave
open during heavy downpour. If you leave it closed it will collect
water on top. The water on top of cover will displace the water below it
pushing it up and out of the pool. The heavy weight on top of the cover will
damage the cover track system.

A: Open the cover early -
don’t wait till storm is in full swing as water removal during a storm is very
difficult and even dangerous. Also, if you experience a power failure, your
pool cover will not operate.

Q: Should I leave my
pool filter pump running?

A: Yes. In most
cases you should leave pump running.

I do recommend turning off the heater.

Q: What if my pool
overflows? Will water hurt the lawn?

A: Many pools
have a high water overflow OR they leak above the tile line and will settle
there. The “first response”
for a pool that’s been through heavy rains is to lower water levels, remove
debris, clean baskets and filter, etc.

A: Regarding gardens and lawns- generally a pool’s sanitizer (Chlorine or
Bromine) is much diluted after heavy rains and will not have an adverse effect
on lawns or gardens around the pool.

Usually the larger problem is when soil,
mulch and fertilizer from the lawn and garden get into the pool.
Fertilizer contains Phosphates and Nitrates- both generally interfere with
sanitization and promote algae growth- this will make clearing pool a real challenge
after the rain.

Q: I have a stream beside my pool that floods. What should I do?

A: Monitor the level of the river and turn off power to pool equipment if water reaches that
area.

(Consider calling us about flood control measures that can
be built into your landscape after storm.)

Summary Check List:

• Secure objects like furniture that can become projectiles.
• Keep drain grates clear
• Keep automatic pool covers open during heavy rains
• Leave filter pump running unless advised otherwise.
• Turn off heater.
• Call your professional service people if you have concerns or questions.
• Don’t worry about the grass if pool overflows.

If you would like to experience a higher level of service, please contact us!

Be safe out there!

———————————————————-

“Every little thing’s gonna be alright!”

-Martin Smith

In the 70’s folks often allowed their pools to turn green- not bothering to prepare them or protect from algae growth. They would look like this when opened, or worse. Such pools were typically drained, acid washed and re-filled.

In the 1980’s, we learned to conserve water. Throwing away 35,000 gallons of water every Spring became unthinkable! …and during the drought of 2002, it was illegal!

The pool industry has come a long way! What is the secret to opening a clear pool and conserving water?

Before answering this question, I should mention that [unfortunately] there are still pool owners and service firms that haven’t quite learned how to do this, or worse, they don’t think it’s important. The above picture was taken in early April this year.  This was not a foreclosure home and the landscapers did not get fertilizer in the pool.

Opening a pool quickly and getting the water to this condition should typically take 3-5 days (or less) if the pool was prepared properly for closing.

Point: The art and science of opening a crystal clear pool begins with closing the pool properly.

Easy Steps:

1) Balance the water before closing. 2) Close the pool CLEAN 3) Use a stain and scale preventer. 4) Float slow-dissolving sanitizer in the pool- use enough, and anchor them in the center.

There are some other important details, but that’s basically it.

Point: Cutting corners on the pool closing does not just produce stains, finish degredation and a frustrating and lengthy pool opening. It can lead to a massive waste of clear, clean water- a precious resource.

More to come! Stay tuned.

It was a winter of heavy snowfall, a Spring of heavy rainfall…

Heavy rains filled our rivers and pools this past few months...

 

Question: What Impact Do Harsh Winters Have On Your Pool Finish?

Answer: It means precipitation has changed your water chemistry and diluted your pool water. This year you will find that your pool water is more corrosive than usual. (e.g. calcium hardness is very low) These things must be corrected at your pool opening; but what is the effect on the pool before it is opened?

A [plaster] pool finish has a high calcium content. Pool water is “hardened” with calcium chloride in order to protect a pool’s finish. This is an important part of the overall balancing required to maintain pool water that is neither corrosive or scaling but water that is just right.

A pool finish can get pretty “beat up” when water is soft (as far as calcium goes). To make matters a bit worse, we are also finding (THIS year) that our pools have a generally low pH and Total Alkalinity. Taken together these factors make for more-than-normal corrosive water. This is one of the primary factors that lead to degredation of finishes while pools are closed.

This year, pools in our area have had about 2-3 feet of new water added from snow and rainfall! Water from snow and rain is not quite like your city or well water. Rain water is very soft and what is in the atmosphere often winds up in your pool.

Key Point: Swimming Pool water will tend to be very soft and corrosive this Spring- more than normal .

Next up: Other pool challenges brought on by dilution from rain water, and how to protect your investment.

 B

This is a picture of a pool on the New England coast. I took this almost exactly a year ago today, January. 2010.

Looks great doesn’t it? What do you think, is this pool okay? 

Today, it’s under a foot of snow and we have a lot more coming. So, why be concerned at all about a swimming pool in the winter? Just cover it and forget it till Spring… right?

Let’s take a look under this pool cover for a moment. Same pool. Same time. Here’s the picture:

Fortunately, this Client had signed up for a “winter watch and pump down service.” During a routine check, our service technician found that the water level in this pool had dropped suddenly and substantially.

Had we NOT caught this, a Nor’ Easter (like the one coming up the coast as I write this) could drop a foot or so of heavy wet snow on this cover. With the pool water this low, even a new and strong safety cover would have been damaged or ruined.

Point: Make sure you keep track of your pool’s water levels throughout the off season.

I saw another pool last winter where water and ice levels were not kept below tile and coping. This pool easily sustained about $20-$30,000. in damage as ice lifted the beautiful granite coping and broke tile. Ouch! The pool Owner didn’t even know this had happened because the damage was hidden by a snow-covered pool cover.

I didn’t make a service agreement sale that day but their existing service company had some explaining to do along with some warranty work in the Spring!

Ice is perhaps the most powerful natural force on earth.

Your beautiful pool safety cover does a nice job covering up the pool for the winter months: Besides looking nice, it keeps leaves out and gives you peace of mind. That said, in the Northeastern United States, pool service is a 12 month thing.

This is just a friendly reminder. Don’t forget the pool! “Out of sight, out of mind” is not a good approach as a pool owner in this part of the country. If you cannot keep an eye on it yourself- and we understand, people are busy and pumping down an ice-covered pool is hard work! For peace of mind, consider hiring a professional service company to keep an eye on your pool this winter for you.

Do I have a service company in mind?

Yes, yes I do.

Enjoy your winter!